Tibet

Back in Kathmandu after an incredible two weeks that really seemed like a lifetime, sitting in an internet cafe with some new friends and some mad experiences. Must gather thoughts...

Arriving in Kathmandu, we spent a few days hanging around by ourselves, getting used to dodging the traffic and dismissing salesmen. One of the highlights was visiting Durbar square in Patan, where you can see a lot of very old Hindu temples. Hinduism is the majority religion in Nepal and they are a very spiritual people, and it coexists peacefully with Buddhism (Mahayana, not Theravada like Sri Lanka).

Temple of Kali, Durbar Square, Patan. Yes, those are animal entrails hanging over the door. The priests dance inside the temple in a spiritual trance and drink the blood of the animal to give them strength.


Our tour started out in Kathmandu. We had a Nepali tour guide (B.K.) who we discovered had a very interesting background. He is very well educated (degree level maths and economics), and is a Brahmin (highest caste in Hindu society). Despite this he renounces the caste system, for which I give him great respect. He also speaks 5 languages (English, Nepali, Hindi, Tibetan and Japanese). I think he also speaks some Chinese too. Our group were an interesting mix: mainly Aussies, 2 New York Jewish ladies, 3 Irish lasses, 1 English chap and 1 English woman. Oh, and 1 British Sri Lankan and his French wife. No idea what to make of them when I first met them. Amazing how well you learn to know them after you travel with them for 2 weeks.

Unfortunately, I had to pass on the first day in Kathmandu with mild stomach bug and headache, but since it wasn't serious, Emmie went on ahead to visit some Nepali villages...

Then, flying straight up to Lhasa. 3490m above sea level, and according to Wikipedia 68% of the oxygen at sea level. We had to leave any images, or media critical of the Chinese occupation, including any pictures of the Dalai Lama or the Tibetan flag, back in Kathmandu. So, our first experience of Lhasa was the Chinese. Which is probably a good time to talk about the occupation...



Every Tibetan house has to fly the Chinese flag. If they refuse, they can face over 5 years in prison. They also have to buy this flag from the Chinese government.

At almost every junction in Lhasa there is a small unit of Chinese soldiers. There are also armed soldiers marching along the streets. Although there has been some violent protests, this complete overkill is clearly an intimidation tactic.

You are not allowed to take photographs of Chinese soldiers or checkpoints. If you do, they take your camera away and delete all your photos.

You cannot speak any critical word against the Chinese.

Unwanted Tibetan Religious/Political figures have been known to be taken by the authorities and vanish. For example, the 11th Panchen Lama (one of the high Lamas equivalent and sometimes regarded as higher than the Dalai Lama). On the death of the 10th, the Dalai Lama announced the new Panchen Lama, as is traditional. He was immediately taken from his parents into Chinese custody. The Chinese then held a so called 'random' ballot in which by 'chance' the son of a Chinese politician was elected the 11th Panchen lama.

Chinese agents pose as tourists undercover in monasteries, listening for signs of defiance covertly.

Tibetans are discouraged from becoming monks, and many monks are forced to abandon their lifestyle to conform.

All that being said, its hard to really hate the Chinese people in Tibet. Many are apparently forced to live here as a way to dilute the Tibet culture. Some are quite pleasant, although the soldiers, all young guys, seem to be taught to sneer and intimidate, as Emmie found out when she tried to ask directions from one. Tibetans are, despite all this, some of the friendliest people I have ever met. They seem very welcoming to foreigners, and seem happy to see Indian looking people, maybe because in their religion many of their most revered Buddhist masters are Indian so the connections are strong.
"Go to Tibet and see many places, as much as you can; then tell the world." - 14th Dalai Lama. Photo is the famous Potala Palace.



So, political rant over. Back to the story...

We met our Tibetan guide, Tsilling. He is a very interesting character. Nothing more I can say about that, maybe we can tell you more when we get back. How to describe our time in Tibet? Hmmm. Basically we went overland from Lhasa back to Kathmandu, stopping off in a whirlwind tour of temples, towns and monasteries. I've already spent an hour writing this so I'm going to have to be brief. So much to say.

Tsilling and the guys. BK is the Nepali guy in the orange shirt in the background.


Lhasa is a city divided into a Chinese side and a Tibetan side. Naturally, the Chinese side is the developed and modernised side. Pretty much on the other side of the Potala is the Tibetan side, where the majority of Chinese seem to be soldiers on duty. There is also a large Chinese muslim community placed very near the Tibetan community. It is a city of bustle, but after Kathmandu its no big deal. As well as visiting the town, some highlights were: the Potala, Jokhang temple, the Barkhor (holy devotional circuit around the temple), Sera monastery.

View from the Jokhang temple


Monks chanting


The two Tibetans whom we asked directions to a nunnery. They decided to lead us there themselves and also had tea with us, even though they didn't speak a word of English. The nuns let Emmie meditate in their meditation cave. Nicest people in the world. Also shown are English Dave and Fiona.


Monks debating in Sera monastery


Right, I'm up to two hours on the internet now. I must be concise. So difficult.

North of Lhasa we visited Ganden monastery. Founded by Tsongkhapa, the guy who was the teacher of the 1st Dalai and Panchen Lamas. Unfortunately it was Emmie's turn to get unwell, so I went alone. We walked the Ganden Kora there, a spiritual walk up a hill that takes you from 4500m to 5050m. At that altitude, it was tough, but worth it.

Me and monk. Ganden.


View from the top. If that walk doesn't make you holy, nothing will.


Right, now I find that the really good shots from now on (Everest base camp, me jumping off a bridge...) are in NEF raw image file mode. I need to think of a good way to convert them. And since I've now been 2:40 on the net, I better sign off. More later.

Sri